vampyrichamster: (Default)
[personal profile] vampyrichamster
Last month, we flew back to Kuala Lumpur for the first visit in 14 years. Seth and I were a little wary, as on the trip we took there when we just got married, my fellow countrymen—specifically conservative-looking Malay men in public places—would give my husband dirty looks. Mind you, I always expected to be the one who got the dirty looks, since young Asian women dating white guys had a reputation as gold diggers in Southeast Asia when I was growing up. It's still the reason I'm wary about visiting Bangkok (where people treated me like I was my Dad's mistress everywhere we went). Turns out, we were fine. The people of my home city have noticeably gained a level of cosmopolitanism that wasn't there before. We were never hostile towards foreigners, actually I'd say most Malaysians are pretty friendly if approached, but there used to be a slight wariness, I guess? It was like when we were in Singapore a bunch of years back. Seth was at best ignored and at most given curious stares because he's Very Tall. I have also aged appropriately into a tube-shaped, 40-something Asian lady. Nothing to see here.

The very first thing we discovered upon landing in Malaysia is that KLIA is horrible about signage. The light rail that connects the airport terminals is currently being refurbished, so arrivals are bussed to Terminal 1 for immigration processing. No one told us this when we exited our gate and like everyone else, we initially followed signage to the Arrival Hall through these long, boarded-up tunnels (for the refurbishment) while getting ever more confused. It was by chance our nice neighbours on the flight told us that a) there was actually a Business-class passenger exit no signs told us about and b) we needed to take a bus. They even led us to the bus. Such nice people!

Getting an airport limo to our hotel was another weird experience. There were booths for hired cars right after immigration, but these seemed to be run by different companies. We arrived at midnight so most of these booths were closed. That said, a guy from one of the lit booths immediately approached us and asked if we needed a ride. Our first reaction to a tout is to look very baffled and suspicious. The limo company was legit though, with about-right pricing for our trip. We still waited anxiously as their guy led us out to the kerb and took forever calling up their car, which was just very reasonably stuck in traffic. The limo driver played 80s and 90s Malay love ballads (kind of like our enka) for the hour and change to our hotel. I kind of wanted to ask him why the old-fashioned the whole way there.

We actually stayed at the same hotel we did the last time we visited, Traders at KLCC. The hotel was a safe space which gave us a good experience the first time around, and it was still that way. My parents also kept reiterating how the location was extremely convenient to get around town. Given that we checked in after 1AM, we also opted for the hotel's buffet breakfast later that morning, which we remembered liking. Breakfast was good. They have a nice international spread, with the usual American, Continental and staple Malaysian options, plus sushi. My go-to was their congee station because that was a greatly comforting memory from the last time I was here. It only had all my favourite toppings, including braised peanuts, century egg and yau char kwai. They even had hot soy milk. And necessarily bracing teh tarik, the lifeblood of my people.

So, given my current tubular format, my plan before the trip was to eat relatively healthy and indulge some while I was in KL. KL only ever grows as a maze of gigantic shopping malls. You can't walk five feet without whacking into something tasty. I'm not saying San Francisco lacks good food because seriously, it has some of the best food. But beating KL on good food is not going to happen. Ever. Okay? The reason for that is because KL has a street food culture. With the advent of massive malls, this just means the walking spaces are landmines of random tasty things surrounded by restaurants. This means we have many small cafes between all points serving delightful Asian-style cream cakes. Whereas American-style cakes tend towards butter creams and can get overly sweet, Asian-style cream cakes mostly use whipped fresh cream fillings, possibly with fresh fruit. They're usually lighter than what I'd get in the US and definitely not so heavy or sugary. After many years abroad, I was craving fresh cream cake. Our transit point for this trip was through Narita Airport. You know what Narita Airport is like? It's a gauntlet of Japanese cheesecakes from across the great Nippon along with an army of high-end bakeries displaying sable cookies, mochi, custard-filled pastries and stuff so twee and fragile you'd be scared to eat them in glass cases between every single gate. Seth was practically holding me by the collar like a naughty hamster to stop me from rolling into them. Also, their delicately crisp butter-filled sable cookies are extremely elegant and will make you feel like a high-class lady of good standing after trying one. (I got a box to thank my spouse for surviving this trip with me.)

I did not get to eat cake every two hours. I did not even get to eat cake for breakfast. Seth gave me this weird look when I tried, like I somehow am not supposed to use my disposable income as an adult to make horrible life decisions. I had two slices of cake on a trip of ten days. One was an okay black forest gateau (my favourite cake) and another was an astoundingly amazing tiramisu mille crepe. The black forest was from a hotel (not all hotel cakes are equal), whereas the mille crepe was from a cake stand inside Isetan's supermarket area that seemed to specialise in "all the cakes and pastries you've ever read about in a manga". That mille crepe turned out to be just what I needed to remember that cake is wonderful and now most cakes are inferior again so I don't need to crave them.

Apart from my husband coming to retrieve me when he's realised I have yet again left him to keep walking while I stand longingly in front of a cafe menu board, the other reason I didn't get more cake than I thought I would was because there is too much good food in Malaysia in general. My parents wouldn't stop shovelling rich food at us virtually every day. At one point, I had to convince my mother not to make me pack home a large jar of pineapple tarts and some other random cookies we were getting at the same place to the hotel. In spite of her reassurances, we were not going to ever finish that before we left. Instead, I got the "small" sample, which was still eight tarts, ten kuih bahulu (Malay madeleines) and two small chocolate-covered butter cookies. Oh, they were delicious. But we really could have done with just four bahulu. (FYI, traditional non-biscuit cakes in Malaysia are variations on sugary coconut milk custards thickened with glutinous rice flour, steamed, baked and fried.) There was also the exquisite-but-too-much dim sum, very good but slightly different Beijing-style cuisine (my bias towards Cantonese cuisine holds) and incredibly rich and perhaps a little too spicy authentic Malay dinner. Doesn't help that my family orders way too much food by default, as it is more polite to overfeed guests than underfeed them. And that's outside of the things we managed to eat on our own! I had intense cravings for tofu fa (very soft custard tofu in sugar syrup), strangely muted cravings for roti. Seth even endured what he called, "your thing for runny eggs", our traditional Chinese coffeeshop breakfast of soft-boiled eggs with soy sauce and white pepper, usually served with a tall, buttery kaya (coconut egg curd) toast and bracing tea (or coffee) laced with sugar, condensed milk and evap. Seth loves Malaysian kopi, yet we both came home appreciating our usually sugarless morning caffeine with half and half. (Is this why fresh cream cakes seem like the least of our evils to me?)

Surprising food trend: Biscoff biscuits as a flavouring for coffee and baked goods. Lotus-brand Biscoff biscuits are sort of like a much sweeter, slightly thicker, cinnamon-flavoured pepparkakor. They are insanely addictive and great if you can't find pepparkakor (and still less sweet than most American cookies). I was vaguely aware that Biscoff is ground into a paste for toast. It turns out that the actual European biscuit this is based on, speculoos, has that usage when not eaten in biscuit form. So it makes a certain logic that you'd put it between pastry. Seems like a waste of crunchy biscuit, but it's probably easier than mixing sugar, cinnamon and butter.

Less surprising food trend: Korean food. Korean food, like Korean dramas and K-pop, seem to have really crept into the local consciousness. It was here when I left, but is more pronounced now. Actually amused us to read the menu of a popular Korean fried chicken chain and realise that all the specialty drinks were clearly mojitos with the alcohol removed to meet local tastes. When you know something probably started out with shochu in it...

Malaysia apparently still has trouble coughing up a burger worthy of an American. Yes, even Burger King and McDonalds. On the other hand, McDonalds sells nasi lemak with buttermilk fried chicken chop covered in gravy, so take that American McDonalds. No, I never got to try it because there was just too much food.

Anime is big in Malaysia. We were always more exposed to anime to begin with, since no Malaysian child born after the 1980s cannot not know Doraemon and Ultraman, but walking downtown across giant ads embedded in the sidewalk for an Attack on Titan finale art exhibition is next level. Pharmacies sell SPY X FAMILY stationary box sets. Kinokuniya in KLCC, one of our favourite must-visit places in the whole city to this day, has an expanded manga and light novel section to rival the one in San Francisco. The visitors are from all sorts, students debating which latest volume of what to spend their precious allowance on, working age adults, even families with children where the parents know what they're doing. We bought some cute gacha toys at Lot 10, claimed to be the Japanese mall in KL, and the selection had changed by the time we came back less than a week later. This means turnover is fast. There's a scary Don Don Donki (Don Quijote, as seen in Yakuza games) with four floors of Japanese snacks, instant mixes and fresh mentaiko what made me want to cry since I can't take that home with me in Lot 10. I recommend it for the trippiness. Japanese food is everywhere. Never hard to find in KL to begin with, it's clearly still much loved. Our convenience stores now carry rice balls alongside the usual hot drinks, steamed buns, fried assortments, sandwiches & co., making them basically konbini without the booze. 

Early in our trip, Seth found out we were a few doors down from one of the most highly rated omakase sushi establishments in the city. Well, this meant I had to have a cute date with my husband, whiskers fully twitching. Omakase experiences are about enjoying the food regardless of what you get served. Actually, it's about trying something new and realising you've found something fascinating you never knew about because of the challenge. It means discovering even though you don't like squid, firefly squid (hotaru ika) has a nice crunch and a mild seafood taste, and even though you've written much copy about the notes of cream in uni and you personally find uni too sophisticated for you to appreciate—er, it still tastes like high-class snot. But it did initially go down mild and creamy, I swear. Seriously though. The staff at Sushi Oribe were incredible and kind, service is impeccable to the point of being psychic. I had previously swum right before and came out with a severe allergy to the pool water yet not fully realising it. This meant I was sniffling with pink eyes while eating. The poor servers worried I had a food allergy, discreetly put a box of tissues beside me and I felt like I could not reassure them enough it really wasn't the food. The friendly chefs had a flip chart with labeled pictures of every seafood they could possibly serve, so we were given brief explainers of each item's provenance. It was fun! I got to try fishes (or fish parts) I never had before, like sakura ebi, something I knew about which just never came up in anything I ate. They added them to a sublime chawanmushi. I already love chawanmushi to bits, the fine wee shrimps added a nice texture without being too prawny at all. They served halibut fins two ways, one deep fried (totes okay with deep fried fish fins and bones) and one marinated into a lovely sweetish-sour tenderness. I never knew salted fish intestines would be a mild sea flavour on top of sashimi (I'm pretty sure they're usually quite stronger). We were even shown a mini tuna model to teach us which specific cuts were served at any time. One of the dishes were served with what the chef called, "Japanese sambal". I asked if it was a shishito pepper, and he said it was an actual Japanese chili. It had a nutty flavour I thought was nice if I could find it. Chile Japones is apparently a real thing. Will keep eyes open for it.

Other random closing thoughts:

How big is video games in Malaysia? I don't know, weirdly. Since the pirated video game boom of the 90s and 00s dried up, it's hard to tell. Original software is expensive for Malaysians, but so is manga. Most PC games are sold online-only anyway. There are stores selling Playstation and Switch games. Me and Seth were looking hard for region-specific releases we couldn't find in the US. Last time we were here, we found Shinovi Versus and Dark Souls before they were localised for North America. I know Malaysians play video games online. I've run into them on FFXIV. This might be where the market has leaned into.

On my earlier point, KL really can't stop growing giant malls and tall buildings. Malaysia doesn't get the natural disasters prevalent in the very nearby Ring of Fire, so making 50 to 100-floor towers is how we do modern. Seth took photos that suggested my city is getting more cyberpunk over time. Cranes and wire-scaffolding soar across the whole downtown. We still suck at pedestrian-friendly streets though. This is ironic, since KL is now extremely well-connected by rail, even to satellite towns I wouldn't have thought possible in college. Generally, you'd think this means people would be incentivised to park and commute, but we also have haven't stopped building fancy highways and elevated roads. Our traffic jams continue to be epic. Convenient zebra crossings and pedestrian walkways are not to be expected, even in the city centre, which can be said to have more of these tools than other places. Our streets in San Francisco aren't pretty, but damn do we have zebra crossings. Back when I first moved here, I appreciated not potentially being run over while dashing across a four-lane highway every day. This is probably why I still assiduously insist on crossing at a zebra crossing when I can, even if I could just cross from the middle of the street, just to appreciate this luxury.

By the end of ten days, we were genuinely tired of exploring high-end malls. It's not like we were going to buy from Chanel. Neither of us genuinely felt a need to shop, even though Malaysia is a major shopping destination. We tried to supplement our visit with an actual trip to the national forest reserve in the middle of KL. Unfortunately for us, the eco-park was closed due to bad weather. Walking in 35C heat has its limits, never mind I used to walk in it all the time. We did have a lot of fun just walking everywhere though, remembering how much we like doing this. Next time we go, we'll probably opt to stay closer to downtown, as we also explored KLCC and its surrounds to a nub. I really wanted to visit the National Gallery, which I haven't gone to in years and couldn't. In fact, if we go again (we will), I'd like to stop by more museums. I got to taste a lot of things I could only find in KL, which Seth was very pleased I could do, but I definitely did not try everything, nor some things more than once. It is also necessary to go to KL with my husband. He is a reassuring presence that is irreplaceable and my adventuring companion. But most of all, he noted that twice during our trip, I managed to yell out loud, "Thank the dark gods!" in a crowded place and somehow...people ignored it.

He looked. People ignored it. 

Donut worry. I have not recently gained an allegiance to any gods, dark or otherwise. That was just due to high exposure to WAR40K media. 

He also told me about it only a week after we got home. 

Date: 2024-06-19 07:06 am (UTC)
aceofkittens: (Default)
From: [personal profile] aceofkittens
I'm compelled to tell you that you can (and I do) buy the Lotus Biscoff in bulk at Costco, and the Speculoos cookie butter at TJ. :)

Date: 2024-06-20 11:34 am (UTC)
armiphlage: Ukraine (Default)
From: [personal profile] armiphlage
So good to hear from you!

*drools on keyboard*

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