The Etruscans
Jul. 15th, 2026 09:54 pmIt had been a long time since we were able to have a cute spousal date. I feel like about half of that is my fault. Since both of us are foodies and I've had to watch my carbs, this naturally meant we had to cut back on quite a few of things we liked. Like the lovely Italian place on 24th St. I want to survive even though it opened in a lot where the owners (and shop cuisine) changes eerily frequently. Note to self, I should drag Seth back there at some point. We don't want nice food nearby to suddenly be cursed. I would eat anything on special at that place that was not calamari. I'm sure they do excellent calamari. It's really not my protein.
I found out in May that the Legion of Honor was hosting a momentous exhibit on the Etruscans, an otherwise obscure historical subject that Seth happens to have a big interest in. I actually learned about the Etruscans from Seth when I first moved to San Francisco. He told me about this little-known civilisation who scandalised the contemporaneous Greeks and Romans because their women participated as equals with the men at banquets. Greek and Roman women, by comparison, were kind of the prototype for the obedient, unseen woman hidden in the shadowed back rooms of the home. They wove a whole damn lot. To be fair, women of ancient civilisations (including the Etruscans) wove a whole damn lot in general because without machines to make cloth, the process really took up everyone's time. Incidentally. both genders contributed variously to spinning thread, because if cloth took time to make, it would take even longer if the people who didn't weave were not busy making the base material with idle hands. But, Etruscan women could own property. At least until they were conquered by the Romans, Etruscan women even kept and used solely their family names after marriage--and even under Roman influence, they suffixed the husband's surname to their for a while. While comparatively empowered in the social sense, Etruscan genders still did not have equal roles. Men still did the warring and most of the ruling, and women's sphere of influence was primarily the home. The Etruscans were apparently pretty keen on marital harmony too, with depictions in statuary and art showing couples lying together on couches in strong monogamous relationships. Again, not the most patriarchal and strictly functional reltionships common for their neighbours. (I mean, their neighbours thought male homosexual bonding was the height of nobility for crying out loud. Heterosexual sex was for making children.)
More importantly, even though the corpus of knowledge is growing, there's really still not much known about the Etruscans. Their culture was subsumed by the Romans, who took over their city-states. As the Legion of Honor exhibit notes, the Romans absorbed Etruscan knowledge on aquaducts and their numeral system. But over two centuries of conquest, it was the Etruscans who became Roman and lost their culture. We only really know about Etruscan literature from other civilisations mentioning their significant works. Their physical written works, which did in fact exist, were largely destroyed during conquest. Roughly 13,000 pieces of Etruscan writing still exist, most of which are rather short inscriptions scraped together from recovered artifacts and tombs. Because Etruscans were highly religious, their primary ruins still standing are necropolises and temples. You know a written language is in trouble when the longest extant piece of literature we have is 1,400 words found on linen wrappings around an Egyptian mummy some 17th century Czech guy bought as a souvenir in Alexandria. (Just a note, but the Czech guy's treatment of his souvenir is peak we do not do that anymore to historical artifacts. The female mummy was unwrapped and stood up for display with nails.) Historians can roughly read Etruscan text because they use a form of the Greek alphabet, but what the text means has largely only been inferred. The Etruscan language was from an isolate group, that is, unrelated to other known language groups. We don't have many bilingual texts to compare meanings. There is no Rosetta Stone. This is unbelievably as bad as the quipu. The quipu is an Andean method of recording done by knotting string, primarily as numerical notation but historians strongly suspect also for narratives. It was most famously used by the Inca. Spanish conquistadors found these piles of string heretical and burned most of them, thus we have about 1,400 quipu left in collections around the world. A majority of quipu still cannot be read due to lost technique. Even taking into account that not all quipu are whole records, they are records. This still sounds more numerous to me than 13,000 pieces of writing, most primarily a handful of words or less of a name on a statue or grave.
Having said all this, The Etruscans was a marvelous exhibit. So many rare things I've only ever seen online or read about were on loan. There was the Liber Linteus--the aforementioned mummy wrappings, which actually document a religious calendar. My favourites were a statuette of a couple that is popularly cited as an example of the Etruscan emphasis on marital harmony and a bronze model of a sheep's liver used as a learning tool for hepatomancy (divining by animal entrails). The statuette is a tongue-in-cheek bronze sculpture of a man with one arm around his wife and the other hand groping her breast. The couple are actually gazing fondly at each other and the persons depicted looked to me at least in their forties. When I'd seen photos of the statuette before, I'd assumed it was fairly large, at least the size of a ceramic Madonna statuette, maybe one foot tall. This was because it was so detailed. As I said, you could clearly see the expressions on the couple's faces. In person, the statuette was tiny, probably shorter than my hand. The last time I felt so awed at seeing an artifact in person was probably when we visited the Catherine the Great exhibit in Melbourne and viewed real Old Masters paintings. The sheep liver model, the Liver of Piacenza, is another important example of Etruscan writing, but really, is mostly just super cool. I've read about people divining with animal entrails before and never thought once how you might teach that to apprentices. Turns out, you use detailed liver models with clearly marked zones attributed to your gods. That is legit awesome. The Etruscans sort of led the field of hepatomancy, as their Roman rulers were still sponsoring training for Etruscan diviners long after subjugation. There were examples of Etruscan metalworking in gold, pieces of jewelry but also things like vessels. The Etruscans specialised in granulation, which is basically soldering images on a metal surface using wee dots of molten metal. Very wee dots, some only slightly larger than the full stop at the end of this sentence. I remember scanning over a goblet on display thinking, "Oh, another engraving," before realising the whole thing was really composed of thousands of tiny golden dots. An ancient artisan must have spent weeks if not months outlining every palm tree on that hand-sized goblet. A set of those and you could very well imagine them doing harm to their maker's eyesight. I basically dragged Seth over once I realised what this was to womansplain that to him. Once we noticed the granulation once, we couldn't un-see it. Like another bracelet on display where the granulated images of people with decorative border was done including on the inner side of the wrist. These were things made in 600 B.C. by hand. Even the bucchero (clay fired black and polished) pieces were amazing. The clay pieces were so well buffed they looked like wrought iron or black metal. Seth pointed out a cheeky black-on-red figure urn whose reverse side depicted a naked man gleefully reaching for a woman at a water basin, She looked back at the man and seemd quite horrified. Probably...these guys weren't married.
As I was about to leave for the gift shop, I caught sight of a small sign posted behind the entrance sayiing there was a complimentary audio tour to accompany all the exhibits, with instructions on how to connect to the museum's network and then scan QR codes on the placards. That nearly made me turn around and start touring the entire exhibit again. Yes, I had noticed people were looking at their phones and some were even holding it to their ears for narration. But the Legion of Honor's basement has no signal, so I assumed at the time these people were accessing a paid audio tour service. Also, I didn't bring headphones. Suitably aghast, I vowed not to make the same mistake when we come for the new exhibit on the Pharoahs in August. We are coming back in August. Seth and I fell prey to one of our greatest weaknesses--little old museum shopkeepers--and bought a discounted membership valid for one person and a guest. It almost immediately went into discounting our purchase of a book on the Etruscans. Pretty sure I'll also come home with some random book next time I'm there too. I don't usually do museum tchotchkes, though I might cave if some pretty glass scarab turns up. I'd be in trouble if they had nice faience tiles or beads.
I found out in May that the Legion of Honor was hosting a momentous exhibit on the Etruscans, an otherwise obscure historical subject that Seth happens to have a big interest in. I actually learned about the Etruscans from Seth when I first moved to San Francisco. He told me about this little-known civilisation who scandalised the contemporaneous Greeks and Romans because their women participated as equals with the men at banquets. Greek and Roman women, by comparison, were kind of the prototype for the obedient, unseen woman hidden in the shadowed back rooms of the home. They wove a whole damn lot. To be fair, women of ancient civilisations (including the Etruscans) wove a whole damn lot in general because without machines to make cloth, the process really took up everyone's time. Incidentally. both genders contributed variously to spinning thread, because if cloth took time to make, it would take even longer if the people who didn't weave were not busy making the base material with idle hands. But, Etruscan women could own property. At least until they were conquered by the Romans, Etruscan women even kept and used solely their family names after marriage--and even under Roman influence, they suffixed the husband's surname to their for a while. While comparatively empowered in the social sense, Etruscan genders still did not have equal roles. Men still did the warring and most of the ruling, and women's sphere of influence was primarily the home. The Etruscans were apparently pretty keen on marital harmony too, with depictions in statuary and art showing couples lying together on couches in strong monogamous relationships. Again, not the most patriarchal and strictly functional reltionships common for their neighbours. (I mean, their neighbours thought male homosexual bonding was the height of nobility for crying out loud. Heterosexual sex was for making children.)
More importantly, even though the corpus of knowledge is growing, there's really still not much known about the Etruscans. Their culture was subsumed by the Romans, who took over their city-states. As the Legion of Honor exhibit notes, the Romans absorbed Etruscan knowledge on aquaducts and their numeral system. But over two centuries of conquest, it was the Etruscans who became Roman and lost their culture. We only really know about Etruscan literature from other civilisations mentioning their significant works. Their physical written works, which did in fact exist, were largely destroyed during conquest. Roughly 13,000 pieces of Etruscan writing still exist, most of which are rather short inscriptions scraped together from recovered artifacts and tombs. Because Etruscans were highly religious, their primary ruins still standing are necropolises and temples. You know a written language is in trouble when the longest extant piece of literature we have is 1,400 words found on linen wrappings around an Egyptian mummy some 17th century Czech guy bought as a souvenir in Alexandria. (Just a note, but the Czech guy's treatment of his souvenir is peak we do not do that anymore to historical artifacts. The female mummy was unwrapped and stood up for display with nails.) Historians can roughly read Etruscan text because they use a form of the Greek alphabet, but what the text means has largely only been inferred. The Etruscan language was from an isolate group, that is, unrelated to other known language groups. We don't have many bilingual texts to compare meanings. There is no Rosetta Stone. This is unbelievably as bad as the quipu. The quipu is an Andean method of recording done by knotting string, primarily as numerical notation but historians strongly suspect also for narratives. It was most famously used by the Inca. Spanish conquistadors found these piles of string heretical and burned most of them, thus we have about 1,400 quipu left in collections around the world. A majority of quipu still cannot be read due to lost technique. Even taking into account that not all quipu are whole records, they are records. This still sounds more numerous to me than 13,000 pieces of writing, most primarily a handful of words or less of a name on a statue or grave.
Having said all this, The Etruscans was a marvelous exhibit. So many rare things I've only ever seen online or read about were on loan. There was the Liber Linteus--the aforementioned mummy wrappings, which actually document a religious calendar. My favourites were a statuette of a couple that is popularly cited as an example of the Etruscan emphasis on marital harmony and a bronze model of a sheep's liver used as a learning tool for hepatomancy (divining by animal entrails). The statuette is a tongue-in-cheek bronze sculpture of a man with one arm around his wife and the other hand groping her breast. The couple are actually gazing fondly at each other and the persons depicted looked to me at least in their forties. When I'd seen photos of the statuette before, I'd assumed it was fairly large, at least the size of a ceramic Madonna statuette, maybe one foot tall. This was because it was so detailed. As I said, you could clearly see the expressions on the couple's faces. In person, the statuette was tiny, probably shorter than my hand. The last time I felt so awed at seeing an artifact in person was probably when we visited the Catherine the Great exhibit in Melbourne and viewed real Old Masters paintings. The sheep liver model, the Liver of Piacenza, is another important example of Etruscan writing, but really, is mostly just super cool. I've read about people divining with animal entrails before and never thought once how you might teach that to apprentices. Turns out, you use detailed liver models with clearly marked zones attributed to your gods. That is legit awesome. The Etruscans sort of led the field of hepatomancy, as their Roman rulers were still sponsoring training for Etruscan diviners long after subjugation. There were examples of Etruscan metalworking in gold, pieces of jewelry but also things like vessels. The Etruscans specialised in granulation, which is basically soldering images on a metal surface using wee dots of molten metal. Very wee dots, some only slightly larger than the full stop at the end of this sentence. I remember scanning over a goblet on display thinking, "Oh, another engraving," before realising the whole thing was really composed of thousands of tiny golden dots. An ancient artisan must have spent weeks if not months outlining every palm tree on that hand-sized goblet. A set of those and you could very well imagine them doing harm to their maker's eyesight. I basically dragged Seth over once I realised what this was to womansplain that to him. Once we noticed the granulation once, we couldn't un-see it. Like another bracelet on display where the granulated images of people with decorative border was done including on the inner side of the wrist. These were things made in 600 B.C. by hand. Even the bucchero (clay fired black and polished) pieces were amazing. The clay pieces were so well buffed they looked like wrought iron or black metal. Seth pointed out a cheeky black-on-red figure urn whose reverse side depicted a naked man gleefully reaching for a woman at a water basin, She looked back at the man and seemd quite horrified. Probably...these guys weren't married.
As I was about to leave for the gift shop, I caught sight of a small sign posted behind the entrance sayiing there was a complimentary audio tour to accompany all the exhibits, with instructions on how to connect to the museum's network and then scan QR codes on the placards. That nearly made me turn around and start touring the entire exhibit again. Yes, I had noticed people were looking at their phones and some were even holding it to their ears for narration. But the Legion of Honor's basement has no signal, so I assumed at the time these people were accessing a paid audio tour service. Also, I didn't bring headphones. Suitably aghast, I vowed not to make the same mistake when we come for the new exhibit on the Pharoahs in August. We are coming back in August. Seth and I fell prey to one of our greatest weaknesses--little old museum shopkeepers--and bought a discounted membership valid for one person and a guest. It almost immediately went into discounting our purchase of a book on the Etruscans. Pretty sure I'll also come home with some random book next time I'm there too. I don't usually do museum tchotchkes, though I might cave if some pretty glass scarab turns up. I'd be in trouble if they had nice faience tiles or beads.